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But from , it has been transformed from virtual no-go area into cultural hub — giving the island back to the people and attracting tourists. Each weekend, farmers set up stalls outside with a cornucopia of organic vegetables, including a buzzing flea market covering the adjoining Place Viarme on Saturday.
Muscadet is the wine of Nantes, sold at every cafe and restaurant. It has been enjoying a revival as the focus has returned to quality over quantity and more organic wines. The vineyards begin just outside town, so either drive or join an organised trip through the countryside between Nantes and Clisson. The magnificent Loire estuary is a natural extension to the city that we have been opening up for locals and tourists. Three art biennales have left a heritage of 30 monumental sculptures and installations as the river nears the Atlantic.
The artworks will take your breath away: a half-submerged house, a giant sea snake, wild animals climbing trees, a metal tower with a house on top that can be rented.
The flamboyant Passage Pommeraye — a precursor of modern shopping malls, built in — may not be as famous as its peers in Paris, Brussels and Milan, but for me Pommeraye is the most beautiful, with its elaborate staircase, statues and ornaments that climb up three floors, leading to a maze of gilded galleries. Shoppers can browse fashion showrooms, cake shops and jewellery or leather workshops.
The vast building was abandoned until we created Le Lieu Unique in as an accessible and affordable cultural centre — a place for everyone in Nantes to have fun, and open daily from 11am to 2am or even 6am.